Me: Can we get Pusher on the way home?
Mom: We have Pusher at home.
The Pusher at home:
Dragging my feet, I still got to Sky Bridge Ridge by 8:30am
on Saturday morning. I was warmer than I expected it to be. I changed into
shorts when I got to the crag. Then I set up my pad (I have to tie it to a
small tree to keep it from sliding down the slope). The warmup routine is set.
I wasn’t expecting much. My previous high point seemed like
a wall I just couldn’t surmount. But without much ado, I cranked my left heel
onto the rail, grabbed the starting holds, and fired all the way through to my
highpoint. As I choked up to make the lunge for the gaston I popped off.
On my second attempt I managed to match and tag the gaston
before coming off, but after watching the video of that attempt, I realized I’m
coming off as I’m lunging for the hold. It’s not my success at landing the gaston
that’s inhibiting progress—it’s the setup for the move that’s causing me to
come off. I also realized after those first two attempts that I have gotten
stronger since I started this process, and for each move leading up to my lunge
from the match I am more solid and in control. That’s distinct progress.
As frustrating as it can be, I love the process of working
out hard boulder problems. I gave The Pearl nine burns on Saturday. On
four or five I was able to tag the gaston before coming off, but on all of
those attempts I was sagging away as I slapped up with my right hand. My next
goal is to make the move to the gaston in complete control. This will take some
core strength and body tension control.
My progress is slow and incremental. I’m only getting out
there once a week to try. That’s mainly because the days are too short this
time of year. The other factor is that I’m committed to going to the gym
(workout/climbing) on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and the other days I’m either
resting or trying the problem or hiking or whatever. I’ve been ignoring my
ongoing development of the new area. I’d intended to have at least a hundred
new problems this year, but I’m holding at around fifty. I need to get back
there and knock out a bunch of unclimbed lines. Of course, all this
strengthening going on will make my efforts more successful when I do get back
up there.
I feel pretty good about sending this problem by the end of
the year. I haven’t gotten on Dreams yet, but I will soon. I had a good
session at the gym last week as well. I watched a tiny little girl working a
V2-V4 graded problem (why such a range?) while being coached by my fitness
guru. Once they moved on, I got on it and did much better than expected. I’m making
it my goal for this week to send that one (assuming they don’t strip it and set
something else in its place). I am a curmudgeon at the gym. I’m a curmudgeon at
the crag.
After I finished working on The Pearl Saturday, I
spent a little time cleaning up the No Inhibitions Boulder for future ascents.
A couple of climbers hiked up to The Inhibitor. One of them looked over
and asked what the problem I was cleaning went at. I looked it—a V0 problem
called Gratuitous Crotch Grab—and replied: “It’s really easy.” The guy
was like “oh, okay…” and then proceeded to walk down behind the Inhibitor (Pearl)
Boulder and piss at the corner where the iconic problem starts. And he did it
in full view of me on top of the other boulder.
I decided anytime I’m up there and need to piss I’m going to
start going under The Inhibitor. Should I be so...pissy? I mean, Rennak said he had to clean up under the boulder before he could do the FA. But now there's chalk and it's obvious bouldering activity. Anyone with half a brain could see that. Anyone.
Did I mention that I hate people? It’s leaf gawking season. It’s “prime climbing weather.” It’s all BS. I miss the old days when I mostly had the whole place to myself. I miss my dirtbag days. My goal in life is to figure out how to live that life again. Before I’m too old to enjoy it.
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| Current high point |
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